Thursday, November 11, 2004

The Blue Danube

I've lived within sight of the Danube River for most of the last seven years, including a year and a half in Budapest and over five years in Belgrade. Today, you can stand on my balcony, look to your right, and see it through the trees.

This powerful, historic river slices through the heart of Europe, from its source in Germany, through Austria, between Slovakia and Hungary, then straight south through Hungary, between Serbia and Croatia, through Serbia, between Serbia and Romania, and east between Romania and Bulgaria until it finally ends its journey in a huge delta on the Romanian coast of the Black Sea. I've seen the Danube in almost all of these countries.

I vividly remember a hot, sunny day in July 1999, waiting on the bank of the river on the Romanian side for a ferry to take us across to Bulgaria. We were five people in a mini-convoy of three vehicles, waiting with many other cars, trucks, and busses. We were sucking on oranges bought from a roadside vendor and trying as best we could to escape the heat.

People got out of several busses and milled around, some of them going down to the river bank to wade, wash their faces, and generally try to cool off. We opened the doors on my car and cranked up the Rolling Stones, just to help everyone get their minds off the heat. Most people ignored it, but a few seemed to remember the Stones, and smiled.

We were lined up first to get on the ferry because we had just missed the last one. After we waited about three hours, the ferry arrived, and we saw to our dismay that we had been waiting at the wrong place. We were no longer first in line! But then a few Romanian police officers showed up and escorted us onto the ferry first. Maybe they were Stones fans, or maybe they just took pity on us.

I've rarely seen the Danube when it appeared to be blue. Mostly it's a light brown, sometimes with a tinge of green. The bluest I ever saw it was on another hot, sunny summer day, this time in Serbia, near the city of Novi Sad. I was standing on a hill, looking at a destroyed bridge in the distance and wondering why the bridge had been bombed. There wasn't any discernible military reason. The Danube made a broad, wide sweep through the wooded hills just below where I stood, and it was sparkling blue and beautiful in the bright sunlight.

I guess it doesn't matter whether the Danube is really blue. Sometimes it isn't so much what a thing actually looks like as how it should look, and a blue Danube is more beautiful than a brown one. I suspect Herr Strauss understood that.

5 Comments:

Blogger Craig said...

I crossed the Danube on a train going north from Munich to Berlin about two years ago, my first and so far only trip to Europe. I don't remember even seeing the river so I couldn't tell you if it was brown or blue. I did get a glimpse of the Rhine later that week, but the train was going so fast that it was only visible for about five seconds.

8:33 PM, February 16, 2005  
Blogger Craig said...

I crossed the Danube on a train going north from Munich to Berlin about two years ago, my first and so far only trip to Europe. I don't remember even seeing the river so I couldn't tell you if it was brown or blue. I did get a glimpse of the Rhine later that week, but the train was going so fast that it was only visible for about five seconds.

8:33 PM, February 16, 2005  
Blogger Tom Carter said...

Craig, train trips like that one in Europe are wonderful. The most interesting I ever took went all the way through Switzerland in late winter...absolutely beautiful, breathtaking.

5:37 AM, February 17, 2005  
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